在过去的18个月中，我’我以15美元的价格尝到了太多垃圾，甚至我’m surprised, 和 I’在其中包含一节的人 the 便宜的酒 book 那表示在12到18美元之间— “the province of ‘Big Wine’ marketing — offered the least 值. But what I’ve tasted since the end of 2014 has been even worse than that, $8 of 值 dressed up in a $15 bottle.
• 在洛迪和法国鲜为人知的地区，生产商（大多是大型生产商，也有较小型生产商）做出了坚定的努力，将他们的生产与所谓的“cheap wine” that we’不应该喝酒。他们’为此，我们创造了带有华而不实标签的新产品，这些新产品的制造方法与旧葡萄酒相同，成本大致相同，但零售价更高。这样，他们’当新酒值得时，它会重新产生一种印象’s mostly the emperor’的新衣服。或者，就像国库酒庄的老板所说的那样，“按摩.”
The key is what Storchmann calls noise ? the publicity a good score gives a wine. ?The noise raises the quality perception of the wine, 和 the noise is larger for bad wine, ? he told me. 在 the study, 便宜的酒 is defined as ?bad ? because it ?s less expensive than ?good ? wine, 和 better quality wine should cost more.
What happens, says the study, is that a high score for 上 e 便宜的酒 influences the perception of the entire brand, as well as for different vintages ? possibly raising the price of every wine in the brand. That means that if Winery X ?s 2011 merlot gets a 92, that score gives consumers the idea that the rest of X ?s wines, whether chardonnay 要么 zinfandel 要么 whether 2009 要么 2010, are equally as good. Which isn ?t necessarily the case.
This explains a lot about the wine business that I ?ve never been able to understand, like why so many of the multi-nationals that make 便宜的酒 care so much about scores. And market them so obsessively. Or why so many smaller wineries are equally obsessed with getting a good score. It ?s that damned spillover effect.